Defeating Oedogonium Algae Inside The Aquarium

Sadly, most planted tank owners have to deal with aquarium algae sooner or later.

They can make us feel so frustrated when some arise, and you do not have any experience or knowledge to save your planted tank populations.

The green hair/fuzz algae group is often the type that appears inside aquarist tanks. Some may look identical in appearance but actually be registered as different species.

Green fuzz (Oedogonium) algae and the true “fuzz algae” are two filamentous algae types within the same group, with similar appearances but distinct characteristics.

Previously, we discussed the characteristics and how to fight the fuzzy algae. In this comprehensive guide, we will provide you with all the beneficial information about Oedogonium algae, from general knowledge to treatment methods.

What Is Oedogonium Algae?

They are part of the freshwater green filamentous or hair algae group (family Oedogoniaceae), which was first discovered by W. Hilse in 1860 in the fresh waters of Poland, and later named by the German scientist K.E. Hirn.

Oedogonium algae have a short, fuzzy or fluffy appearance, resembling a thick forest of green hair, which is attached to almost all surfaces of objects in the aquarium, including plants and substrate. The mature ones could live as a free-floating mass.

These algae prefer to attach to weak or dying plants that are exposed to light. They can appear in new or old tanks. In some cases, they also arise after massive trimming.

Green fuzz or green fur algae is another common name for this type of algae. It reminds us of the actual “fuzz algae.” At first glance, it isn’t easy to distinguish between them. When they mature, the difference becomes apparent.

The Oedogonium colors usually range from dark green to yellow-green. Their growth rate is rapid, and they prefer slow-moving water. When you try touching them, they do not feel slimy.

Their filaments are usually unbranched and only one cell thick. Green fuzz algae have holdfast cells that act like roots, enabling them to attach more firmly to objects. They can reproduce themselves by sexual, asexual, and vegetative methods.

The green fuzz algae commonly inhabits stagnant water environments such as roadside ditches, lakes, pools, small ponds, reservoirs, and marshes in their natural habitat.

Some areas with significant pH levels (7.3-9.6) are perfect for growing. These algae can also tolerate a wide range of nutrient types and amounts in the water.

Is The Oedogonium Algae Bad For Plants?

The answer is Yes.

Based on their growth habit, they may be suffering from poor plants that are prone to dying. Absorbing all nutrients and blocking the light interferes with the leaves’ photosynthesis.

If you leave them to grow, they can generate their cells quickly, causing the Oedogonium populations to bloom out of control. It makes the plants unable to survive, forcing you to rebuild the aquarium as the best solution.

However, some aquarists said, “If having a small number of algae is normal since you can control them.” So, do you want to see them live in your prized tank?

Is The Oedogonium Algae a Danger For Fish?

Oedogonium algae probably can harm your aquarium fish, but not directly.

Many plants will slowly wither and die when these algae invade your tank. Under these conditions, the dissolved carbon dioxide levels in the water will be significantly reduced, and the organic waste in the substrate will accumulate.

It may block the filter, preventing the recycling of water and stopping fresh water from flowing to the entire tank. This condition is a very unhealthy condition that can harm your fish.

Common Causes Of Oedogonium Algae

Understanding the leading causes is the foundation for enhancing the success level of winning with Oedogonium algae in the planted aquarium.

Below are two primary points that cause the algae to develop in the fish tank:

Unstable CO2 Contents

The fluctuating or lower carbon dioxide levels are the universal reasons many aquarists accept as one of the problems causing many types of algae, including this green fur algae.

They prefer this condition to initiate reproduction, and if this situation continues for a while, they may spread throughout the tank.

Imbalance Macronutrients

The appearance of hair algae types is commonly associated with an imbalance in macronutrient concentration.

Lower or higher phosphates (PO4) and nitrates (NO3) levels are the primary substances that cause the Oedogonium algae to grow.

The age of the fish tank does not matter; they can appear in newer or mature setups. In other cases, poor water quality and excessive trimming can also cause them to grow faster, although this is not the leading cause and should not be of concern.

How To Prevent The Oedogonium Algae from Striking Your Aquarium

Performing the following tricks will help keep your tropical tank in optimal condition and decrease the chance of green fuzz algae being established.

This probably sounds mainstream, like other steps that aquarists usually use to avoid almost all freshwater algae types. But this is very important, so do not underestimate it. It works effectively to remove the presence of the Oedogonium algae in your aquarium. Let’s see it:

Add Some Species That Eat Algae

This tip seems so simple; it is the first step necessary to guard your plants.

The algae-eating species spend their time around the alga clumps in the wild. It helps them to reach and feed on the algae more easily.

These species also exhibit this behavior when kept in an aquarium. Biting little by little, constantly, making the algae population easier to handle.

Unfortunately, they consume only younger algae, more so than adults and larger ones. Do not be disappointed; it is just the first step, as we said before.

Most freshwater shrimp species are poorly eaten by Oedogonium algae, except Amano shrimp. Instead, some algivore fish species such as Siamese algae eaters, rosy barbs, otocinclus catfish, and mollies. If you prefer other species, you can use nerite snails. Use those that are appropriate for your setup.

Maintenance And Water Change

Maintaining is the key to creating a great and healthy tank, and it will be broken without that. There are several things that you should perform in this chapter, including:

Cutting off the dense clumps and taller plants helps the vegetation section under the parts receive light for photosynthesis and allows some spaces for spreading. It will help any plants in your tank grow to their full potential.

Cleaning inorganic and organic waste helps maintain stable water quality. You can use a gravel cleaner to remove any debris from the substrate. It will remove any bacteria, algae, and fungus bases that harm your plants.

Wiping up the glass wall is another step that you can take. You can use an aquarium glass cleaner to get rid of the sticky stains, making the tank view clearer.

Give regular fertilizer to gain and stabilize the dissolved substances in the water. It will be critical if you provide insufficient doses, your plants might not grow well, but if you provide excessive doses, it will probably lead to more severe problems. Ensure you supply the correct amounts.

Next, a weekly water change routine of around 30% can help keep your tank in its best performance. The use of distilled water is more recommended than tap water, as it does not contain iron, manganese, or other substances that can degrade water quality.

Producing your own RO water can save a significant amount of money; purchasing an RO water kit for home aquaria is a step you can take. Fortunately, this equipment is available on most major online marketplaces.

Always Monitor Your Tank

Ensure to test the water quality and parameters frequently. This step helps find the rate of substances in the water.

The nutrient test kit set and CO2 checker are available in trade; their competitive prices come with many variations; choose one that suits your tank.

A standard healthy tank commonly has a value formulation like this:

• pH Level: 7-7.5
• Carbon Dioxide: 20-30 mg/l
• Phosphate: 0.1-1 mg/l
• Potassium: 5-10 mg/l
• Magnesium: >10 mg/l
• Nitrate: 10-25 mg/l

Never overfeed your fish; the accumulation of leftovers can invite various issues. Provide enough lighting duration, generally 7-8 hours.

Water should be circulating to all areas in the aquarium; if there is a dead spot, consider changing the filter to a larger one or adding a powerhead or wavemaker. We suggested using a canister filter. It helps to bind the carbon dioxide released into the air.

How To Get Rid Of The Oedogonium Algae From Your Aquarium

When you return home and discover some Oedogonium algae attaching to your precious plants, it might change your mood immediately. In the next chapter, we will explore several ways to remove them. So, let’s see it below:

Wiping Up Oedogonium Algae Manually

The first step in combating almost any type of algae is to eradicate it. This way is worth it for a low-level algae outbreak.

A tiny population of Oedogonium algae that sticks to the object could be cleaned off by scratching it with an algae scraper. While the free-floating form is pretty easy, you can use a fish net to pick them up from the water’s surface. Adding more algae-eating species can help to consume the remains.

Although it’s not working perfectly against medium- to high-level algae plagues, it can reduce the numbers. So, you need to move to other steps if the simple tips above do not eliminate them.

Next, reduce the water by 30% – 75% depending on its level. Pick up equipment and decorations such as a filter pipe, stones, and driftwood. Brush and soak it in the algae removal or hydrogen peroxide mixture for a while. Make sure to wash it to be precise.

After that, fill up the tank with water again. Distilled water is recommended. Then, the carbon dioxide and fertilizer rates should be increased above the usual levels. Provide the tank with 6-7 hours of lighting duration while waiting for the results.

If that method does not significantly affect you, you can perform a blackout for three days, cover yourself with a thick blanket, and refrain from overfeeding your fish during the session.

Liquid Carbon Treatment

You are likely familiar with or have heard of this product. It’s effective against most freshwater aquarium algae species include Spirogyra, GDA and GSA.

Liquid carbon is readily available in the trades and offers affordable prices. Applying this product is simple: take a syringe and fill it with the desired number of doses (5-7ml). After that, it is injected directly into the algae.

Perform this treatment once a day for at least a week, or until the algae are dead. Liquid carbon is generally safe for most aquarium populations; it helps aquatic plants grow optimally and healthily.

“Seachem Flourish Excel” is a brand product commonly used by many aquarists; we also use this product to enhance the health level of our plants and to combat algae.

Treatment With Medicines

Two types of cures can kill Oedogonium and other algae inside the aquarium. First is an algae removal liquid safe for various populations, including fish and plants. This product is highly recommended for use and sale by many brands, and its price varies.

An example is API Algaefix, a product that is potent in killing hair algae groups and is safe for use in home aquariums. Do not forget to read the instructions before using it. It’s available on Amazon and other sites, so wanna try this product?

The second is H2O2 (Hydrogen Peroxide) liquid. You can also buy this product on Amazon, but we do not suggest removing the algae. Instead of killing the algae, it could also kill your plants.

3% hydrogen peroxide can annihilate the Oedogonium algae in a moment, but if you administer an incorrect dose, it may harm the aquarium plants.

Most freshwater tank keepers do not advise using this product, especially for beginners. It’s only fit for an expert, so choose other methods above that suit your capabilities.