How To Fight Spirogyra Algae In Your Aquarium

Most aquarists have experienced algae problems in their tanks. Of the many types of algae, green hair algae is the most common in planted tanks. Although they do not significantly damage the ecosystem, leaving them without actions to remedy the situation can be a time bomb.

For your information, green hair algae that usually live in freshwater tanks belong to four genera: Cladophora, Oedogonium, Spirogyra, and Rhizoclonium. They have unique characteristics that are easily differentiated.

Some species in the green hair algae group can grow to more than 15 cm in length and continue to grow as they live. However, a few species have a body length of less than one inch. At a glance, their color is similar, a light greenish color that turns brownish as they die.

If you leave them uncured, they will grow quickly, spreading to every inch of the tank and taking over in just a few weeks or even days. These algae will cause many issues, not only for plants and fish but also for equipment (for example, clogging filters or pumps).

In this article, we focused solely on Spirogyra. So you will know more about these nuisances, let’s rock!!!

What Is Spirogyra Algae?

Spirogyra algae is a member of the most common freshwater unicellular green filamentous algae group that grows in long colonies, making them seem multicellular under the Zygnemataceae family.

This alga has several common names that serve as alternative identities. It is more popular than its scientific name, which is accepted by the universal community, including water silk, pond scum, pond silk, mermaid’s tresses, mermaid hair, string algae, and blanket weed.

The Spirogyra have more than 400 species and are distributed across all regions in the world. They primarily inhabit freshwater environments, but some species inhabit brackish waters.

In nature, Spirogyra algae usually inhabit ditches, shallow ponds, lakes, and other water streams with stagnant water.

In their habitat, Spirogyra commonly appears as unbranched, free-floating, green, slimy patches among vegetation or on the ground near water bodies. Their width is approximately 10-100 micrometers, with the body length reaching around 16 inches (15 cm) or more. They are known as short-lived (ephemeral) algae, which usually grow during the wet season and then dry up when the weather changes.

Every cell in their body has two layers; the outer walls are formed from pectin, which absolutely dissolves in the water, causing them to be slimy, while the inner ones are composed of cellulose. They do not occur in polluted water; they prefer clear, eutrophic water with rich nutrients and ample light.

Another unique characteristic of Spirogyra algae is that their chloroplasts are ribbon-shaped and arranged in a spiral within their cells, giving them a glistening appearance in water. Generally, each cell may have around 1 to 16 chloroplasts.

The propagation of Spirogyra is fast; they can multiply by vegetative (cell division) and sexual (conjugation) means.

Are Spirogyra Algae Harmful to Aquarium Plants?

Actually, they can be a safe thing in the aquarium, if only a little piece lives there, and they even provide benefits to livestock as an extra snack. However, when the population goes out of control, they can become troublemakers, ready to cause a big disaster to your tank. Moreover, if you leave them without any treatment, in a matter of days, they will cover it entirely.

When you touch them off, they might have a fragile body structure, but you should believe this; removing them from the tank is pretty tricky, especially the algae attached to plants; they are more formidable than free-floating forms.

Nonetheless, the floating Spirogyra can still have a destructive impact on the ecosystem. They can block the light from the lamp, so the aquatic life underneath cannot photosynthesize optimally, which might cause unwanted things.

Like other algae species, water silks also absorb carbon dioxide and nutrients from the water. As their population increases, the amount of consumed substances also increases. It will starve the aquarium plants and slowly suffocate them.

Please remember that algae are part of the natural environment. It emphasizes that the presence of algae in the aquarium we are building is usual. So do not be edgy when you see them in your tank; as long as you take steps to keep your tank stable, they will surely be gone.

Is The Spirogyra Algae a Danger For Fish?

The answer to this point depends on the outbreak level. A massive population of Spirogyra algae harms tiny critter species and fry. They can become entangled in algae clumps and be helpless to run away due to their long, stringy shape and their sliminess.

Honestly, the presence of water silk in the tank does not significantly impact the bigger fish. However, algae can pose potential problems that could negatively affect them. A large algae mass can clog the filter, reduce the oxygen level, and even stir up bacteria and fungi in the water.

On the other hand, their small population can serve as a benefit to particular aquarium species, which makes them as an extra snack. Spirogyra can also provide perfect hiding places for shrimp fry from predators.

Is Spirogyra harmful to humans?
These algae are safe for humans, so if you see them appear in your tank, please do not panic. They can not hurt you, but it would be better if you tried picking them up directly with your hand; it is recommended to wear gloves.

Common Causes Of Spirogyra Algae

Understanding the root cause is vital before taking action to address the Spirogyra. It will be useful to readers, helping to raise the success rate of killing them and serving you, and avoiding them in the future.

There are four principal points that can encourage the Spirogyra algae to develop in your aquarium; here is the list:

Excessive Lighting Intensity

Too much light duration and intensity are common causes that stimulate most freshwater algae to grow in aquariums.

It helps Spirogyra photosynthesize more efficiently, increasing their reproductive rate. An aquarium with a long lighting period is prone to algae growth.

Too Much Organic Waste

The accumulation of waste from fish, leftover food, dead leaves, and inadequate water changes is another way to invite algae to spread in the tank. It often creates a base for Spirogyra cells to extend and wait for optimal conditions to thrive.

A significant amount of aquarium waste can also pose other problems that risk harming plants and fish, such as becoming a breeding ground for harmful bacteria and fungi.

High Concentration Of Micronutrients

Over-micronutrient concentration can also become a factor that triggers the Spirogyra to grow. It usually occurs when the plant population in the tank has a limited ability to absorb micronutrients. This is caused by something, for example, the population of the plants is too small, adding too much micronutrient-based fertilizer, or using tap water that contains too many iron compounds.

It creates an imbalance between the micronutrient levels and the plants. This condition provides a perfect opportunity for Spirogyra algae to consume micronutrients and easily increase their numbers in the tank.

Bad Water Circulation System

Using a weak filtration system is a fatal mistake; it results in slow-moving, stagnant water. It can deliver dead spots inside the aquarium, which are favorite zones for algae to establish.

If the three main factors are combined in the same place, the haunted Spirogyra can attack your tank anytime.

How To Prevent The Spirogyra Algae Inside An Aquarium

You can try some tips and tricks below to avoid these algae from entering your tank. It also helps your tank perform consistently well and stay healthy. Let’s see:

Keep Some Algivores To Guard Your Tank

An algae-eating crew not only provides protection against algae but also offers a beautiful view and sometimes exhibits amusing behavior that can entertain the owner.

Amano shrimps, Siamese algae eaters, Garra rufa, and Florida flagfish are believed to be effective against Spirogyra algae at the low and medium outbreak levels. They can significantly reduce population numbers if kept in larger numbers. However, when the algae disappear, you should reduce their population to prevent the accumulation of waste that they produce.

While other algae-eating species, such as nerite snails, choose to ignore them in some cases. Instead, they accept other types, such as green dust and green spot algae. Keep in mind that an individual is unique. One of them may accept or reject this algae.

Give A Correct Lighting Duration

Cutting off the lighting period can hold the algae growth. You can easily control the light intensity and timing with a smart aquarium LED lamp, and access it anywhere.

Set up the lamp according to the tank’s needs, and do not leave it on for too long, as this will stimulate algae growth. The integrated aquarium lamps offer practical features not found in conventional models, making them easier to adjust and more efficient. So you won’t feel worried leaving your tank at home for a few days or weeks.

Remember, too short and low light intensity can lead to another type of algae, such as brown algae, arising. The standard lighting period for aquarium use is around 7-10 hours daily. But sometimes this rule does not apply to an aquascape with problems.

A little tricky for our friends when dealing with this alga; if your tank is still affected by Spirogyra, use this rule: reduce the dosage or even turn off the lamp for a few days. Usually, after treatment, the algae will turn brownish and begin to wither; some fish, like guppies, mollies, and algae eaters, are interested in eating them.

Make sure to keep your aquarium away from direct sunlight. It will increase lighting intensity and water temperature, creating a suitable environment for algae growth.

Regular Maintenance

Spending 1-2 hours per week on routine aquarium maintenance is vital to prevent common issues that often affect the tank, such as algae problems.

The focus of this section is to discuss tasks typically performed during aquarium maintenance.

Here are a series of tasks that you should perform during this session:

• Trimming the overcrowded aquatic plants helps prevent the accumulation of decomposing leaves. The utilization of aquascape scissors is required to facilitate this step.
• To siphon the organic dirt from the substrate, you will need a gravel cleaner to remove the waste.
• Cleaning the glass wall and other equipment, including the filter tube, chiller, and decorations. An old toothbrush can be used to remove any stains on aquarium equipment. To wipe off the tank glass, you can purchase a magnetic brush cleaner.
• After that, there is a water change, which is a significant factor in maintaining your tank’s health. You should avoid using tap water because it usually contains many harmful substances ( for example, iron and manganese). Change the aquarium water by 10-30%, or up to 50% if needed.
• Instead, use distilled water, which is safer for plants and other creatures inside tanks. You can convert tap water into purified water using an RO water system for aquarium use, helping you save money.
• The last is injecting regular fertilizer and carbon dioxide. It will stimulate plant growth and increase oxygen production for the critters.

Keep Monitoring

Always check the water quality periodically. Use your favorite test kit to inspect. Do not forget to install a CO2 checker on the wall glass to continuously monitor CO2 levels.

Ensure there is no dead spot inside the fish tank and that it receives sufficient light. A Canister filter and a smart aquarium lamp are two pieces of equipment that really help achieve that goal. This filter can tightly hold CO2, while the lamp offers simple adjustments for aquarium owners to control light in the tank, both in timing and intensity.

An ideal planted tank usually has a standard water parameter like this:

• Nitrate: 10-25 mg/l
• CO2: 20-30 mg/l
• Phosphate: 0.1-1 mg/l
• Potassium: 5-10 mg/l
• Magnesium: >10 mh/l
• PH: 7-7.5

How To Get Rid Of The Spirogyra Algae From Your Aquarium

Looking at your tank affected by spirogyra algae invasion can be absolutely frustrating, especially for those who are stubborn. They make the tank look weird and bother the populations there.

You are in the right place; below are some methods you can try to fight them. Let’s see it:

Remove Them Manually

Erasing them manually is a simple first step to reduce their populations.

Although this method cannot remove algae entirely, it at least eliminates a couple of them inside the tank. So you are just thinking about a suitable move to kill them completely next.

What kind of job should you perform in this chapter?

The first is eradicating the water silk using an algae scrapper as much as possible. This commonly involves scratching clumps off an object and winding up the free-floating form, much like cotton candy on a stick.

The next option is to perform a blackout for a few days (typically 3). Do not overfeed your fish during this session. Ensure that you switch off the CO2 injection and light, and refrain from adding fertilizer. Instead, install an air pump to raise the oxygen level in the water.

Once the blackout is complete, remove all dead algae and leaves, and perform a water change until the water level is 50% or less (if you keep a shrimp tank, cut the water change to only 10%). Then, turn on the CO2, reduce the lighting period to 2-4 hours, cut the fertilizer doses to at least 50%, and add more algae eaters to help clean up the remaining algae.

You may need to put in more effort to complete all the steps above, but if you do, seriousness and carefulness will yield a great result.

Killing The Algae With Liquid Carbon

A conventional liquid carbon product, labeled “Seachem Flourish Excel,” has proven effective in treating almost all freshwater algae in aquariums.

This product is also readily available at most online aquarium stores. Annihilating the algae Spirogyra with this liquid is very simple: fill a syringe with a few doses (we normally use 5 ml/day), then shoot directly at a cluster of algae.

Repeat this process for a couple of days until the algae die and remove them. Many aquarists find this product helpful; if you are looking for a way to treat them effortlessly, this is the solution.

H2O2 Treatment

Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is the most potent treatment for aquarium algae, but its use is not recommended because it contains components that are unsafe for plants.

It can quickly eradicate Spirogyra algae without requiring additional effort or time. Most aquarists abandon this method rather than eliminate algae, but they also lose some plants.

As an alternative, you can use algae removal for aquarium use, such as “API Algaefix and Tetra Algae Control.” This product is safe for aquarium populations and easy to use. It may not be as powerful as hydrogen peroxide, but you surely do not want to harm your own plants.

Here is the guide for applying the hydrogen peroxide and Seachem Flourish Excel into the aquarium (contains high risk, not suitable for beginners, and shrimp aquariums):

Day 1:

• Decrease the lighting time to 4 hours.
• Clean up the algae as much as possible manually.
• Do a considerable water change of around 50%-80% and remove all floating algae particles and dead leaves.
• Install an air pump to increase the oxygen level.
• Switch off the filters, and recommend removing the filter media as a way to protect the beneficial bacteria.
• Create a mixture of Seachem Excel and 3% hydrogen peroxide in a 50/50 ratio.
• Then, use this mixture at a rate of one milliliter per gallon (4.5 liters) and stir the water gently to spread it evenly.
• Leave it to work and wait for approximately 1 hour. After that, put the filter media back in place and turn the filter back on.

Day 2 and Day 3:

• Still provide lighting for about 4-5 hours.
  Perform a water change and give an additional dose of the bacterial supplement.
• Turn off the filter.
• Add 1 ml dose of the mixture per 1 gallon.
• Wait for a single hour, then turn the filter back on.

By doing this treatment, you will see the following results:

• Several algae begin to shorten, pale, and recede.
• Some dead Spirogyra algae patches.
• At this point, you can start gradually raising the lighting period and intensity.