How To Fix Rhizoclonium Algae Issues Inside The Aquarium

The Algae curse is familiar to most aquarists and becomes a formidable obstacle for “beginners.” Without any experience and knowledge, they might feel frustrated with this pest. That is why learning deeper is necessary, especially about potential problems that can be encountered when building a planted tank.

Sometimes, advanced aquascapers also find a new complex problem. It prompts them to seek new solutions. The point is that a true tank keeper must learn sustainability to preserve their aquarium.

As we know, aquarium algae come in many variants. It starts with a hairy look, a dusty view, and seems like threads, brown tint, greenish, reddish, and many more.

Green hair algae are generally present in newly set up tanks. If you are a newbie with a new tank, this article may be valuable to you because it is closely related.

Many articles on the internet discuss green hair algae as a single species, whereas it actually consists of at least four genera.

At this moment, we will share information that we got about one of them, “Rhizoclonium algae,” after we previously wrote about green hair algae in general.

What Is Rhizoclonium Algae?

This alga is a part of freshwater green filament algae under the cladophoracea family, which means it is still closely related to cladophora algae.

Rhizoclonium Kützing is the scientific genus name, and it is a unicellular organism. According to Wikipedia, they consist of five species, including Rhizoclonium riparium, R. grande, R. hieroglyphicum, R. sp. TKSHCL-1301, and R. sp. LB1523.

They have a pale, light green or brown color, with a slimy texture and filamentous shapes.

Their slender, unbranched filaments can grow up to 2 inches (5 centimeters). When rhizoclonium algae arise inside an aquarium, they typically appear as a thread and then form a large, tangled, coarse mat within a few weeks or even days.

Sometimes, they resemble weird, cotton-like structures enveloping plants or objects. It makes their appearance terrible from the outside of the tank.

Under a microscope, you will see them having large, cylindrical, and long cells. It is generally longer, about 2-4 times, than it is broad.

In the aquarium, they usually grow by attaching to the surfaces of objects, such as plant leaves, decorations, and substrates. Meanwhile, the wild forms are very different. These algae are frequently found as floating mats in quiet stagnant water, which is helped by the oxygen they produce, or as rope-like strands in flowing streams. Sometimes, they can also intermix with other green hair algae.

Like their cousin, the rhizoclonium prefers to inhabit shallow, hard-water environments. According to the study, they are known to thrive well in diluted seawater. Rizhoclonium can reproduce in two ways: by akinetes and by fragmentation.

Are The Green Rhizoclonium Algae Bad For Plants?

Algae are an entity that has a nasty effect on aquatic plants. They were labeled as a nuisance pest in the aquarium world and have been universally accepted by all tank hobbyists for a long time.

They are known to be able to slow down plant growth. In some cases, these species can cause more severe problems in the aquariums. In ideal conditions, they can absorb more nutrients and light, allowing them to multiply their population rapidly. It reduces the nutrient resources in the water, making it difficult for plants to continue establishing.

If left untreated, their population blooms rapidly, covering every inch of the tank, and produces green, fluffy masses visible from the outside. They are also known as cloud or thread algae due to their appearance.

It is clearly harmful to the plants. The spaces inside the tank are increasingly crowded, nutrients are dropping, and there is less lighting, making the hope of having a healthy and beautiful planted tank disappear. The only solution against it is to rescape your aquarium.

Nevertheless, if you had some plans to deal with them before, this worst thing would never have happened.

So, since you take action to restrain their population, your tank will always perform excellently and have a stable performance, offering a magnificent display.

Is The Rhizoclonium Algae Harmful to Fish?

Like other green hair algae, they can bring some benefits and disadvantages to fish. However, in reality, they lead to more issues.

They do not harm the fish directly. Instead, they create problems that can affect them in various ways. For the sample, they can clog the filter, which stops the water cycle, and as a result, the water quality is changed.

A massive colony that forms a tangled thread mat is pretty dangerous. It can entangle the fish and prevent them from escaping, especially for small sizes and fry.

When they grow uncontrolled, they likely cover the surfaces, making it difficult for the plants underneath to carry out photosynthesis. It will significantly reduce the oxygen. Additionally, it causes the fish more trouble when they attempt to reach the surface for oxygen, resulting in greater suffering.

Vice versa, if they are grown-handled, only a few patches appear in the tank; you should not worry about that. It’s normal, and even offering a benefit for your fish is a good idea. There are certain types of fish and other aquarium creatures that consume these algae as their primary food source in the wild.

So, algae will become extra food for them, and the algivores happily swim around the fish tank to eat these snacks little by little.

However, some tank keepers may not want even a tiny piece of algae to appear in their tanks and then choose to eradicate it until nothing remains.

Common Causes Of Rhizoclonium Algae

You might not get a dominant position in-game to conquer these algae if you do not understand the primary keys that invite them to develop.

At least four main reasons are causing the rhizoclonium algae to thrive well in your freshwater aquarium.

Newer Setup

The unfinished nitrogen cycle in the new tank is the top reason for this outbreak. The high concentration of this substance at the beginning of the tank setup can be slightly challenging to manage, especially for new aquarium keepers with limited experience.

This chapter is a vulnerable phase for the tank populations. Suppose you can not maintain them as well as they need. In that case, the rhizoclonium will easily invade your aquarium, or even other algae types may join in because it provides a perfect environment for some algae to grow.

Low Maintenance

Some people with many activities outside or who are busy might not have enough time to care for and maintain their tanks, creating an imbalance in that ecosystem.

An abandoned tank will be rich with organic waste. It will have poor water quality, lower nutrient levels, and may contain some dead plants or fish. The aquarium equipment may also be damaged or broken.

The unhealthy aquarium will encourage the rhizoclonium algae to proliferate, and if left untreated, the destructive plague will soon arrive in your aquarium. It will also lead to the emergence of other parasites in the tank, such as detritus worms.

Lower Carbon Dioxide Content

It’s the most common reason for algae problems to appear. Plants that do not get sufficient CO2 will grow unoptimally. As time passes, the melting and dying. This situation is a good chance to take over the tank.

Limited CO2 conditions prompt aquatic plants to compete with one another for this substance and other dissolved nutrients in the water, enabling them to survive. However, not all plants in the tank can adapt well to this situation. Only some plants with the ability to adjust to the surrounding environment can survive. This usually occurs in the aquarium, where many plants are present.

Poor Water Flow

Slow water currents can also facilitate the invasion of algae. An incorrect or older filter supply creates sluggish water movement, leaving some areas inside the tank without sufficient freshwater or even unsupplied (resulting in a dead zone).

That means that CO2 and nutrient circulation can not be spread to all zones, creating a poor area around the tank, which is bad news for the plants. Instead, it is a good opportunity for algae to start growing.

How To Control The Rhizoclonium Algae Growth In Your Aquarium

Preventive measures are the proper methods to keep your tank away from them. By following these steps, the likelihood of algae surviving is very low. Here is the list to protect your fish tank from these algae.

Put Some Species That Eat Rhizoclonium Algae

Algae eaters can still become a slightly powerful weapon against most aquarium algae. They can help you avoid algae by their consuming habit, which means that they have more interest in eating them than other aquarium species.

The green hair algae group is preferred by most algivores, including Siamese algae eaters, Amano shrimp, Nerite snails, Garra rufa, guppies, mollies, and Dwarf shrimp species. They are proper critters to add to your aquarium.

Keeping algivores is beneficial for low- to medium-level cases, as it provides more entertainment for owners through their habits and appearances, making them less likely to feel bored when watching the tank.

Passed The Nitrogen Cycle As Well

Building a new setup tank will face the challenging phase, where the ecosystem is still unbalanced. This phase determines whether your aquarium will succeed or not because the nitrogen cycle is still incomplete. Algae commonly thrive in this phase, so you must take action to handle them.

The first step to deal with it is to observe your tank. If an error occurs, such as excessive light intensity, insufficient water level, or excessive water flow, correct it immediately. Generally, an aquascape takes at least one month to reach the mature phase. However, some setups may require more time due to factors that affect them, such as the use of incorrect equipment and incompatible aquarium plant types with the setup. So, enjoy this process and keep learning.

Pro tip: Avoid using base fertilizer because it contains high levels of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrogen. Instead, use high-quality soil such as Fluval Stratum. It is made from high-quality, mineral-rich volcanic soil, which is safe for fish and provides additional benefits to aquatic plants.

The second tip is to add more algae-eating crew. We usually use more dwarf shrimps, such as red cherry shrimp, to remove algae and leave them in the tank with a small food portion or even nothing else during this time. But you can decide for yourself which of your favorite algivores to choose.

Turn on the lighting for only six hours per day during this phase of the cycle. When the tank environment matures without any issues, you can gradually increase the daily lighting period by half an hour per week until it reaches a standard duration of approximately 8 to 10 hours.

Provide Correct Doses

Ensure that you supply sufficient carbon dioxide, fertilizers, and lighting intensity to match your tank size and the number of fish or other aquatic organisms in your tank.

These factors are essential, as they can prevent plants inside the tank from competing and receiving what they require to photosynthesize.

You must thoroughly understand the type of tank setup, the type of plants, and their number, before you can build the tank. You must thoroughly understand the kind of tank setup style you want to develop, the types of plants you want to add, and how many of them you plan to include before the inhabitants arrive.

After that, you will be familiar with the necessary requirements and concepts to operate your tank. Below are standard formulas that you can follow as a reference when building a new aquascape:

• Carbon Dioxide = 20-30 mg/l
• Nitrate = 10-25 mg/l
• Magnesium = >10 mg/l
• Potassium = 5-10 mg/l
• PH =7-7.5
• Phosphate = 0.1-1 mg/l

Do A Routine Maintenance

Every planted tank needs regular maintenance sessions. Without that, many problems will arise early and be hard to resolve.

A tropical tank with a perfect maintenance cycle will look cleaner, stable, and the populations will be healthier. You should spend a few hours on the day off to perform this. Below are several tasks that are generally performed during this job:

The first step is to turn off the filter, lighting, CO2 injection, and other aquarium requirements. Then, discharge all from the tank.

Pruning the dense plant clumps is the first duty that you can do. By cutting the overgrown plants, the new leaves will vegetate, parts of the underneath can grow optimally, and the area will look tidy. Using an aquascape scissor is recommended for this task. You may have a preferred alternative.

Removing any debris from the substrate is a priority in regular maintenance. You need a siphoning tool to clean the bottom areas. It helps to suck off any dirt easily and minimize crashing into objects or tearing out leaves.

Next, wipe down aquarium equipment and glass. You require a magnetic aquarium cleaner and brush. It is simple, just rub and scratch the stain, but be careful.

Then, substitute approximately 30% of the aquarium water (a water change) with new, fresh water to stabilize the quality. It would be better to use distilled water. It’s safer than tap water, which usually contains many harmful substances. You can produce it using a RODI water converter for aquarium use, which is available on the market.

Once the series of tasks above is complete, apply any aquarium equipment again and switch it on. The last step is to add a few doses of liquid fertilizer and let the tank run again.

Keep Watch Out

Continuously monitoring your tank condition is very important. It helps prevent any issues that might come.

You should install several pieces of proper equipment to help you monitor the aquarium environment in real time. A thermometer, a nutrient test kit, a Carbon dioxide checker, and a pH meter are some essential tools that are commonly available in most aquascaping shops.

Pro tips: We recommend using a canister filter and a Smart LED tank, which offers benefits such as tightly holding CO2, reducing the dead zone rate, and supplying the light period and intensity that can be adjusted via your smartphone.

Eliminating The Rhizoclonium Algae Inside The Aquarium

This section is likely what you are looking for. It discusses methods of getting rid of these green hair algae species. Here are some techniques that you can try to kill them.

Remove Them Manually

It is still practical and quite effective to eradicate the small- to medium-sized plague. It is also less expensive than other treatments. However, you must invest more effort and time.

Firstly, prepare an algae scraper or a similar item, such as a toothbrush. Then start to scrub them as smoothly as possible, ensure the spores do not stray, and use a net to pick up the shreds. If there are floating mat forms of algae, the net can also be used to remove them.

Black Out Your Tank

Removing the algae manually may not completely clean the rhizoclonium algae. Some small clumps may remain. You can perform a blackout for your tank for three days or more, depending on the case’s level. Throughout this process, feed your fish sufficiently (if you keep a shrimp tank, refrain from feeding them). Turn off the CO2 and light, use a thick blanket, avoid adding any fertilizer, and apply an air pump to provide oxygen to your fish.

When it is over, pull out any dead algae and reduce the water by around 50% (only 10% for the shrimptank). Fill it with fresh water, turn off the air pump, and then switch on the filter, CO2, and lamp again. Adding more algae eaters is effective in depriving the remains. Combining it with boosting the carbon dioxide rate will promote the effect.

Exterminate Algae With Removal Products

Nowadays, many products on the market can instantly kill most types of algae, including this one. It sells at various prices and sizes. The most commonly used is ‘Seachem Flourish Excel,’ a liquid carbon that can significantly reduce algae growth, causing them to age and die within a couple of days.

Applying it is easy: fill a syringe with approximately 3-5 mL of this liquid, then apply it directly to the algae mass. Repeat this process until the algae dies.

You can buy ‘API Algaefix’ or ‘Tetra Algae Control for the other relevant products that most tank keepers usually use. These cures also effectively eradicate various types of green hair algae, including GSA, GDA, and fuzz algae, in the aquarium. Do not forget to read the instructions before use. Those products are safe for fish and plants. So, choose one that interests you.

Doing Advanced Removal Methods

Before choosing this method, it is essential to understand the potential impact it can have. You might break your tank because it can harm your valuable plants and animals, and even injure the owners. The medication to be used in this step is highly toxic and typically used against severe infections, so most aquarium keepers do not recommend it.

Killing Rizhoclonium Algae Using Hydrogen Peroxide

There are two primary methods for using 3% Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) to eliminate this algae in the aquarium. The first is the ‘spot treatment’ and ‘full tank treatment’ method.

Spot treatment involves the direct application of this solution onto infected zones using a dropper or syringe. Read the instructions below if you want to try this method.

• Switch off the aquarium filter or air pump if you have installed one. This prevents H2O2 from dissolving and spreading rapidly in the water.
• Next, fill up the syringe with a few doses of Hydrogen Peroxide. Then, spray it directly onto the algae. Be cautious and avoid contact with any healthy plants or livestock.
• Leave it for 10 to 15 minutes, let the hydrogen peroxide work on the algae.
• After that, switch your filter back on. The residue of H2O2 will be gone by the water cycle.
• If the algae are still alive, you can repeat this method as needed. Perform this process every few days until they are entirely removed from the tank.
• Always observe your tank during this treatment. If plants or fish show stress behavior, perform a water change immediately. Avoid spraying this solution near delicate aquatic plants, such as moss types, as it can harm them.

The second method is ‘full tank treatment’, which is effective for a more widespread algae outbreak. However, it can be more risky because hydrogen peroxide can harm plants, fish, and invertebrates. Perform this if the previous method can not treat the algae. Below are the steps:

• Pick up the fish and other critters, placing them into a quarantine tank. Then, manually remove as much algae as possible. Use a siphon to help clean them more easily.
• Release about 50% of the aquarium water. Prepare a measuring cup and use 0.7 ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide for 1 liter of water. For example, if you keep a 100-liter tank, the maximum dose is 70 ml H2O2. Then mix it with 500 ml of water.
• After that, pour this mixed solution into the fast-flowing water areas in the aquarium, and let it disperse.
• Leave it for approximately 30 minutes. During this time, you may view bubbles inside the tank. Do not worry. It is simply the O2 being released, indicating that the mixed H2O2 solution is effective.
• Next, refill the aquarium with new fresh water. If the results are not optimal, you can repeat the series of steps above for about three or four days. Be mindful of avoiding the bad practice of overdosing the solution, and regularly monitor your plants to ensure they are always in good condition.
• Perform an extreme water change, at least 50% of aquarium water, after your last treatment. This will clean up the remains of algae and hydrogen peroxide. Supplementing the bacterial starter promotes the growth of the beneficial bacteria population that was previously decreased by the treatment.